Carven has appointed Kai Nesselrath as design director, succeeding Mark Thomas, who exited the French fashion house in April. Nesselrath will present his debut runway collection during Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 in October.
“A new generation’s perspective on the world feels especially important today,” Shawna Tao, CEO of Carven, which is part of China’s ICCF Group, said in a statement. “The essence of Carven is a fresh and courageous creator’s spirit, and we believe Kai is uniquely suited to interpret and express it.”
Born and raised in Rome, Nesselrath joins from Saint Laurent, where he spent almost a decade, rising the ranks to become head designer of womenswear. The designer, who graduated from Polimoda in Florence in 2015, also had a stint at Chanel.
Nesselrath inherits a brand in the midst of a revival effort. In early 2018, the company filed for bankruptcy and was later acquired by China’s Icicle Group, which has since rebranded as ICCF Group.
Carven has also seen several creative director changes over the past two decades. Guillaume Henry was creative director between 2009 and 2014, succeeded by co-creative directors Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud, who exited in 2016. The next creative director, Serge Ruffieux, left in 2018 after three seasons. More recently, Louise Trotter was creative director from February 2023 until her departure for Bottega Veneta in December 2024. Thomas was then promoted to the top job in March 2025, with the title of design director. Thomas built on the sophisticated, wearable design language he and Trotter had established.
“Kai’s appointment marks an important step in Carven’s revival initiated in 2023,” the press release reads. “The ambition is to reconnect with the house’s founding vision from 1945: a distinctly French and inclusive approach to fashion, built on uncompromising creativity, product excellence and relevance to modern life.”
“Excited to join Carven, with lightness and optimism,” Nesselrath said. “I love clothes, spaces, and conversations that encourage breathing. It’s an honor to keep Madame Carven’s values alive.”
