A win after false starts
In the early 2020s, mycelium-based alternatives to leather experienced something of a boom, attracting hundreds of millions in venture capital, boosted by glossy brand pilots and promises of commercial scale. Stella McCartney riffed on its signature Frayme bag with California material innovation startup Bolt Threads. Ganni followed, and even helped Bolt Threads launch the Greener Pastures Pledge, giving brands preferential access to its hero material — Mylo — if they vowed to phase out virgin leather. Then, in July 2021, former Hermès CEO Patrick Thomas joined the board of fellow Californian competitor Mycoworks, which released its first collaborative bag with Hermès later that year, and secured a $125 million cash injection shortly after. At the same time, Natural Fiber Welding inked partnerships with Stella McCartney, Ralph Lauren, MCM, and Alexander McQueen’s diffusion line MCQ to use its Mirum material.
Then, it all came crashing down. Bolt Threads ceased production of its Mylo leather alternative in 2023, after failing to secure enough funding to reach commercial scale. In 2025, Mycoworks shuttered its South Carolina biomanufacturing plant, announcing a pivot to processing cheaper third-party mycelium instead of cultivating it themselves, and Natural Fiber Welding narrowly escaped bankruptcy, adding to the sense of an ending.
The Woven Mycelium collection features six styles in three colors.Photo: Bottega Veneta
The key to luxury embracing these materials is to treat them with the same care and craft as conventional leather, says creative director Trotter. For this collection, Bottega Veneta used Ephea to recreate its signature intrecciato weave. “True to Bottega Veneta values, we explored the balance between material innovation and artisanal tradition, refining and perfecting through the technique and craftsmanship that are deeply rooted in Bottega Veneta’s heritage,” she explains.
Bottega Veneta says its Woven Mycelium offering will “continue to evolve through future collections with the introduction of new styles and colorways”. While there’s no indication that Bottega Veneta will replace huge swathes of its leather products with mycelium, the Ephea range offers an alternative for customers seeking products free from animal-derived materials.
The hope is to also help scale innovative materials, so other brands can access them at lower price points and in higher quantities, adds Bottega Veneta’s head of sustainability Yoann Regent.
“Beyond impact reduction, the Woven Mycelium range allows us to explore new textures and aesthetics, while maintaining the highest standards of quality, ensuring that sustainability reinforces, rather than compromises, the longevity and desirability of our products,” he says. “By bringing mycelium into a commercial context, we also contribute to accelerating its adoption, supporting supplier ecosystems, and helping drive systemic change at industry level.”
