If there’s a way to improve under-eye hollowness at home, I’ve tried it. Peptides, retinoids in various forms (even the plant-based alternative, bakuchiol), hyaluronic acid, vitamin C. I’ve even gone the device route: red light therapy patches, depuffing wands, marble massagers. New regenerative agents are hitting the market at lightening speed, and it seems that volufiline is the active du jour.
Like many of us, I started seeing the ingredient pop up all over my TikTok feed. People would apply The Ordinary’s plumping serum or Medicube’s balm stick, and hollow under-eye or facial fine lines would diminish in just a 30 second video clip. Social media magic or scientific innovation? I made it my mission to find out.
Experts agree that social media’s marketing of volufiline as a “topical filler” alternative is not quite right, though it does generally offer worthwhile benefits. According to founder and lead injector at LUX Injectables in Clearwater, FL, Jessica Manges, “Volufiline is a cosmetic ingredient intended to provide subtle skin-plumping effects, not a true replacement for injectable fillers.” That said, she would consider it a volumizing skin-care ingredient, not a filler alternative.
To dive a bit deeper, Manges explains that volufiline contains sarsasapogenin, a plant-derived compound that is thought to promote lipid accumulation within fat cells. “The theory is that after applying the volufiline, the fuller fat cells could create a slight increase in the appearance of the tissue in that specific area,” she says. “The research suggests a modest plumping effect may be possible, but it does not support dramatic facial volume enhancement.”
Realistically, results won’t show up like filler’s longer-term effects, but rather cosmetic improvements in skin hydration, smoothness, and a generally plumper appearance. That said, registered nurse Maro Mehdi thinks volufiline is best suited for mild crepiness, fine lines, and subtle dehydration-related hollowing rather than significant volume loss or true dark circles.
I went in with this guidance in mind, and was still pleasantly surprised by the impact the ingredient made on my skin. Now, it’s an essential part of my smoothing, plumping regimen; and a before work essential to awaken my gaze before a busy workday. Below, a bit about the volufiline serums I tested, plus one that Vogue’s Concetta Ciarlo swears by smooth tech neck lines.
