Men’s Footwear Trends at Pitti Uomo Spring 2027: Top Collections

FLORENCE – The collections shown at Pitti Uomo, which closed here on Friday, put comfort at their core through new silhouette designs, technological innovations and premium materials.

Here’s a look at the season’s most notable shoes:

Paul Andrew x Cuoio di Toscana

Paul Andrew stepped into the men’s footwear category with a capsule made in collaboration with the Tuscany-based leather player Cuoio di Toscana. The He(art) collection included a selection of men’s and women’s styles developed through complex construction techniques such as “Softy,” the unisex loafer which featured a flexible rubber sole; “Facet,” a sculptural sandal enhanced by a jewel heel inspired by Cuoio di Toscana’s signature green color — and “Intertwist,” created through a handwoven technique using thin leather strips. 

“In Cuoio di Toscana, I found values that I have always considered essential: authenticity, excellence and a profound respect for Italian savoir-faire” said Andrew. “This collaboration was born from the desire to tell the story of the extraordinary quality of a material that represents one of the most authentic expressions of Italian manufacturing.”

Pro-Keds

Pro-Keds, the storied American brand relaunched in 2025 by Patrizio Di Marco, former president and CEO of Gucci and Bottega Veneta, and Jay Schottenstein, founder of American Eagle Outfitters and footwear retailer DSW, unveiled its new collection built around three positioning pillars: Made in Italy, core and urban and essentials. 

The heart of the Made-in-Italy collection is the Royal Plus, an exclusive capsule produced with the Italian manufacturer Besneakers. It features hand-finished outsoles and treads, an ultra-soft leather upper with precise stitching, and glitter details on the women’s styles.

The Core collection revisits the silhouettes that were central to the brand’s history, updating them with materials, colors, and proportions designed for today. And the “Urban” style is represented by two new models, including the “Skate,” heir to the “Skate Park Plus” shoe created in the ’70s in collaboration with James O’Mahoney, founder of the U.S. Skateboard Association and the World Skateboard Association.

Each style in the Essentials line reinterprets a different sporting heritage of the brand, from American football to tennis, such as the “Court Ace,” a reinterpretation of one of the brand’s first tennis shoes created around 1978.

The nostalgia of returning to the brand’s roots is telegraphed by a campaign shot by Jamel Shabazz, the street style photographer who collaborated with Pro-Keds on a commercial street shoot back in the ‘70s.

“The brand now has more than 250 points of sale across Europe. We started to enter Asia, starting with China with several key stores. Obviously, we still need to fully develop Asia and Europe, and then we will return to America, where we started,” Di Marco said. “We have launched our e-commerce website, which is delivering satisfactory results.” In April the brand also opened its first flagship store on Via del Babuino in Rome.

Doucal’s

Inspired by ‘Il Grande Blu [the great blue]” the new Doucal’s collection explored the deep blue color. The Stresa shoe was a key model in the collection, drawing on the aesthetic of modern unlined loafers, with a sleek silhouette thanks to the ultra-flexible sole allowing for natural movement. The woven leather technique added an artisanal detail to these styles. The color palette included shades of blue, earth tones, and accents of red and yellow. Pitti Immagine honored the brand with the Pitti Immagine Uomo 2026 award during the opening ceremony of the fair.

Chief executive officer and creative director Gianni Giannini confirmed an 8 percent growth in 2025 compared to 2024, with similar projections for 2026. “As an independent brand, Doucal’s benefits from greater visibility into external market dynamics, enabling long-term planning,” he said.

Sebago

This year, Sebago marked its 80th anniversary at Pitti with a celebration on the Arno river. A custom boat built in the shape of the iconic Docksides shoe sailed through the city.

The brand expanded its loafer offering with new men’s and women’s models. The women’s collection presented soft leathers and hammered textures, while the men’s collection introduced new colors in the signature Dan style.

For spring, the Docksides and Campsides models were reinterpreted in leather executions by historic American tannery Horween Leather Company. The Owen model introduced last season was presented through new materials, color shades reinterpreting the boat shoe’s aesthetic.  “This season’s bestseller represents a hybrid between the boat shoe world and a leather sole,” said global brand manager and creative director Marco Tamponi.

Premiata

Premiata’s spring collection was structured around three pillars: apparel, cordovan and BSKT Clay. The apparel line included outerwear, knitwear — and premium jerseys in a natural color palette of sand, stone, and olive green.

The cordovan line revisited the brand’s shoemaking heritage with models that included derby shoes, loafers, monk straps, and Chelsea boots. Each style was crafted from leather treated with manual washing, brushing, and finishing techniques. The color palette included ebony, black and oak tones.  BSKT Clay, the brand’s signature line, featured full-grain leather, washed suede, crackled surfaces, technical fabrics, and outdoor-inspired details.

“We’re seeing continued strong growth in Turkey, while regaining ground in Asia, Korea, and Taiwan. The U.S. market is growing steadily,” said co-owner and chief operating officer Carlotta Mazza, who added that the brand also recently entered Selfridges.

Voile Blanche

Voile Blanche reinterpreted one of its key models, the “Mind,” drawing inspiration from the vintage and sportswear world. 

The silhouette combined suede and tonal fabric with clean lines and a compact profile that evoked retro athletic sneakers. The shoe featured a durable construction, lace-up closure, and leather linings. Completed by a boxed rubber outsole, it delivers stability and lightweight performance.

The brand has also launched the “Race” capsule collection inspired by the exclusive worlds of offshore sailing, race cars, and international equestrian competitions, available for men  and women.

Flower Mountain

Flower Mountain continued its partnership with Staple, the streetwear label by artist Jeff Staple. For this latest drop, the capsule collection included both footwear and apparel.

The footwear featured patterned designs, graphic details and color palettes that went from natural tones to dusty hues. The apparel lineup included bowling shirts, jerseys, and utility-inspired pieces, accented with floral prints, embroidered details, and the Staple’s pigeon motif. The collection was constructed following comfort, functionality, and design research.

“2026 is proving to be a positive period, driven by collaborations, marketing efforts, and new products introduced in the collections,” said Katherine Ferretti Luzi, sales and marketing manager at Falc US, Flower Mountain and Voile Blanche parent company. “Italy remains a very strong market, while the U.S. is also experiencing growth. Other expanding markets include Thailand and Australia.”

Ellesse

Ellesse presented its “Icons in Renaissance” collection through the “Palazzo Perugia” concept, a tribute to the city where the brand was founded. The LS 914, an off-court sneaker, was reimagined with new shades, premium leather and suede materials. The season’s new launch was Classico, a category dedicated to tennis heritage that included the In59 Original and Ace59 models.

“At Nice Brand Lab, we’re building a project centered on the synergy between product quality and brand identity — two elements we see as essential for long-term, sustainable growth,” said Bruno Conterno, chief executive officer and founder of Nice Footwear Group, which includes Nice Brand Lab, and is Ellesse’s partner.  “This is the vision guiding the development of our current brands and those that will join the group in the future. At Pitti, we see a sneaker market that’s becoming increasingly mature, where consumers look for authenticity, comfort, and construction quality, moving beyond just chasing trends.”

Ecco

For spring ’27, Ecco centered its collection on comfort, quality, and authenticity. The concept that the brand followed was “Walk Your Walk” for a collection that introduced new designs and technology innovations.

The latter included Ecco Encore, Biom and Receptor all engineered to improve cushioning, support, and the foot’s natural movement.

The brand also previewed the Ecco.Kollective SS27 collection, a creative platform that for this season featured collaborations with designers Natascha Ramsay-Levi, Craig Green, and Yosuke Aizawa. 

Castañer

Spanish espadrille brand Castañer is preparing to celebrate its centenary in 2027. To mark the occasion, the brand has launched a heritage capsule featuring two iconic styles: Pablo, a classic camping-inspired canvas espadrille with striped pattern, jute midsole, and a rubber outsole; and Joel, a canvas espadrille with striped pattern, closed rounded toe, side elastic gores, jute midsole, and a rubber outsole.

Among Castañer’s men’s styles showcased, there was “Norman C,” an espadrille wrapped in organic cotton with side elastic gores and dyed jute sol and “Nacho,” a moccasin-style espadrille with closed rounded toe in washed organic cotton and jute sole. The brand confirmed that 80 percent of its sales come from international markets, primarily Italy and the U.S., with 800 multi-brand retail doors and 30 mono-brand stores worldwide.

Jacques Solovière Paris

For Spring ’27, Jacques Solovière Paris, founded in 2014 by designer Alexia Aubert, introduced new signature silhouettes, advanced construction techniques and high-quality leathers. The brand debuted an entirely new family of mules crafted in polished calfskin and suede, alongside expanded colorways for bestsellers such as the “Matt New” and “Chris.”

One of the collection’s highlights was a cap-toe style. Originally introduced in 2019, the look returned as part of the brand’s most recognizable silhouettes pairing suede and calf leather.

Id.eight

Sustainable sneaker brand Id.eight introduced Nuri, its first barefoot-inspired sneaker. 

Featuring a wider toe box designed to respect the foot’s natural shape, the look was built with a “sock construction” technique rooted in artisanal shoemaking. The lining is stitched around the last like a glove, allowing the shoe to move with the foot. This method creates softness and a second-skin fit. True to Id.eight’s ethos, technical innovation is paired with cultural depth: Nuri takes its name from the Korean word for “world” or “universe,” referencing the Taegeuk symbol at the center of the South Korean flag, which represents balance between the forces of nature.