Designers continue to push the boundaries of denim through the lens of savoir-faire. Last week at Paris Haute Couture Week, they elevated the workwear fabric into works of wearable art through texture, appliqué and artisanal techniques.
Tweed and florals were key to Chanel’s Fall/Winter 2026-2027 collection inspired by fairytales. While no traditional denim was used in the whimsical collection, Chanel tapped Maison Lesage to weave its blue tweed in a manner that resembles blue jeans. The trousers were part of a look based on the Scarecrow from “The Wonderful Wizard of Oz” that included a raffia hat and jacket that mimicked straw and a red tween shirt embellished with checked embroidery.
Chanel
Denim flowers faced with ecru silk, and vice versa, create sculptural shapes in Dior’s collection. The designs were inspired by Lynda Benglis, an American known for transforming two-dimensional materials through knotting, pleating or molding, into three.
RVDK Ronald van der Kemp also found inspiration in art—Andy Warhol’s Factory to be exact. The Dutch designer, who regularly uses denim and deadstock in his couture collections, painted, shredded, and felted the fabric for a variety of jeans. Seams were distorted; jean legs were braided. Intentional cutouts, lace appliques and rope-like appliques brought a deconstructed yet organic touch to jeans.
RVDK Ronald van der Kemp
The Jean Paul Gaultier collection by Duran Lantink focused on bold and abstract silhouettes. One look included a fitted denim jacket made from deconstructed Levi’s Trucker jackets.
Jean Paul Gaultier
The upcycled moment wasn’t the only impression Levi’s made at Paris Haute Couture Week. Levi’s also presented a 10-piece collaboration with Christelle Kocher, the artistic director of Maison Lemarié. With denim as its core fabric, the collection incorporated intricate plissé work, feather and floral constructions and delicate lace applications. Resin-coated denim fragments and leather embroideries added structure to pieces.
