Even though Carven announced the departure of Mark Thomas in April, the designer graciously returned via video for a virtual walkthrough of his final collection. That this lineup is Pre-Fall means that the looks mainly set the stage for what was the confident runway collection he showed earlier this year during PFW. Here, he has focused on transitional dressing: a first drop of jackets and coats (from rounder, enveloping shapes to more masculine, double-breasted constructions) alongside lighter silhouettes that revolve around delicate convergences of organza and lace. Leather skirts hovering below the knee and various applications of shearling lean sumptuous, while fringed knits and coordinated pieces in crisp cedarwood brown signal elevated ease. “I have always thought about who the Carven woman is; where she’s going, the situation she’s wearing these pieces in,” said Thomas, singling out Look 4, the chic black ensemble offset by an off-white foulard. “She’s fundamentally Parisian, and I think [the collection] addresses the needs of that woman.” The way a pair of dark denim folds over at the waist (inspired by an orchid), and the grey flannel trousers with elasticized ankles are distinctive design tweaks that women might just want, too.
Since 2023, when Louise Trotter made her Carven debut with Thomas behind the scenes, through to his rise to artistic director in 2025, the brand has charted an altogether different vision than previous contemporary iterations. Were this the childhood game of hot-and-cold, the collections were often moving warmer then cooler then warmer again, and Thomas might have taken Carven warmer still with more time to develop his vision. In April, parent company ICCF (owners of Icicle) entered into a strategic partnership with Kering, which might (or might not) determine what’s next for the brand that inhabits 6, Rond Point du Champs Élysées. Which means, for now, the brand’s creative vision is in a holding pattern.
Despite these behind-the-scenes machinations, Thomas remained tactful and positive, even as he moves on. “I am enormously thankful to have had this experience. I thank Madame Shawna Tao and Mr. [Shouzeng] Ye for the experience. I think what we’ve done is really put the brand back on the fashion map. People are speaking about the brand. It’s relevant. It’s desirable. I think it’s wearable,” he explained. “They have an idea of taking a brand somewhere else, which I’m not aligned with, and it’s time for me to step back and allow them to take the brand in that direction. But I’m extremely honored. My teams and the people I’ve worked with—you know, it takes an army to do this, it really does.”
