The information on garment labels is often inaccurate or misleading, according to new research by the European Commission.
Campaigners say that’s partly the result of long and often complex supply chains — meaning brands don’t actually know what’s going on. And partly it’s because nobody has been really checking — so brands haven’t worried themselves too much about the details.
Inaccurate labeling of textiles in clothing is a systemic issue, according to a market surveillance campaign organized by the European Commission’s Directorate-General for Internal Market, Industry, Entrepreneurship and SMEs (DG GROW). The labels of almost 40% of samples tested across 10 EU member states — including tops, baby clothing, activewear, nightwear, and scarves — did not accurately reflect the composition of the fibers in the textiles. Market surveillance authorities ordered 18 of 104 items to be withdrawn, while a further four were ordered to be corrected or relabeled.
The main fibers tested were cotton, wool, and fiber blends. Samples with a mix of synthetic and natural fibers were the most frequent offenders, with a 64% failure rate. Labels claiming a garment was composed of 100% single natural fiber had a 15% failure rate. The tests were part of an ongoing inspection campaign called Joint Actions on Compliance of Products (JACOP) in the EU and EFTA countries, with clothing one of 11 product categories tested. The failure rate was higher for online purchases at 46%, compared with 36% for items bought in physical stores.
“EU-funded campaigns like JACOP are strengthening cooperation between market surveillance authorities across Europe,” said Victoria Piedrafita, deputy head of unit, HR, business processes & communication, DG GROW, of the European Commission. “By joining forces, national authorities can act effectively to verify if products placed on the market meet EU requirements and impose enforcement measures if necessary.”
The report concludes that mislabeling is widespread and recommends that consumers be cautious of very low prices or deals that seem too good to be true, and to opt for products where the manufacturer’s name, address or website is mentioned on the label. Importers, distributors and retailers are advised to check their labels and markings, while businesses should ensure “rigorous testing of final garments and fabric rolls”.
Brands look for new traceability solutions
“Forty percent is high, but it’s great to have that information,” says Ashley Gill, chief standards officer at Textile Exchange, which has created a chain-of-custody system, including independent audits and transaction certificates, aiming to ensure material authenticity and improve sustainability from Tier 4 production to final products. Spot tests like these will add teeth to the EU’s ESPR Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation, which is being phased in over a number of years.
