Six months after Ralph Lauren’s menswear runway return in Milan propelled him to the top of Vogue Runway’s most-viewed menswear list, the Spring 2027 season delivers a decisive reassertion of French fashion force.
Jonathan Anderson’s Eton-inspired collection at Dior Men returns the house to apex status, reclaiming the No. 1 spot it last held following the designer’s menswear debut for Spring 2026. Louis Vuitton, under Pharrell Williams, follows at No. 2, thanks to its spectacularly staged surf-inspired show. Completing the all-French top three is Celine, where Michael Rider showed his first dedicated menswear runway collection for the house. It was Celine’s first menswear runway show since FW23, and also arguably represents the “newest” house entry in the top 10, given that Celine only introduced menswear for SS19, under Hedi Slimane.
Seven of the 10 most-viewed shows this season were staged in Paris, while Prada and Ralph Lauren were the only two Milan houses to make the list. That represents a significant eyeball shift following last season’s 50-50 split between the two fashion capitals. Jacquemus, the only show outside either city, took place in Corsica, and definitely counts as a French entry. It was also one of three shows in the top 10, alongside Vetements and Sacai, that featured both womenswear and menswear. Technically, Prada could be added to the co-ed list, although there, the female models were used more to illustrate the universality of the garments on show than to highlight their gendered differences.
In total, the list features five new entries this season: Celine, Saint Laurent, Jacquemus, Vetements, and Sacai. One of the most notable of these is Saint Laurent, where Anthony Vaccarello decided to present his menswear during menswear week, following several seasons of showing so fashionably late that he missed the deadline for inclusion here. Welcome back!
Here is the list in full.
10. Sacai, rank last season: new entry
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com
9. Vetements, rank last season: new entry
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
