VENICE — Celebrating his namesake brand’s 30th anniversary, Roberto Coin dubbed his latest high jewelry collection “Meraviglia,” the noun for marvel.
“We wanted to surprise not only our clients but ourselves as well,” said Coin, smiling during an interview on Thursday at the stunning San Clemente deconsecrated church on the island of the same name in the Venetian Lagoon, where the jewels were displayed.
He clearly succeeded because many of the jewels in the cases were already sold. Later that evening, Coin further fueled that surprise by entertaining around 200 clients with a cocktail on the terrace of the Excelsior Hotel on the Lido with stilt walkers and marine-inspired vignettes featuring nymph-like creatures emerging from supersized shells. During the following gala dinner, artists in historical costumes retraced the history of Venice with poetry readings, songs and dances.
Venice, where Coin was born, was the most logical venue to hold the event, he explained, as it is a recurring inspiration, and also to support the city, “which is a marvel in itself,” he added. In May, as reported, Coin was honored with the Cavaliere del Lavoro, or “Knight of Labour,” title in Italy, one of the highest recognitions bestowed by the president of the Italian Republic, recognizing Italian entrepreneurs who have distinguished themselves in different sectors of the economy and contributed to social development, employment, technology and the growth of Made in Italy.
Roberto Coin’s “Meraviglia” high jewelry display at the San Clemente deconsecrated church.
“Meraviglia is a manifesto of creative freedom and artisanal excellence, and it is the journey toward the completion of the jewels, not simply the end result,” said Coin, who holds the role of president of the company he founded. “For me meraviglia [anything marvelous] is never static. It lives in change, in the capacity to look every time beyond what we have already created.”
In fact, he said that he continues “to consider each collection as a new beginning, a new discovery, a new dream to transform in reality. It is in this continuous evolution that I find the most authentic expression of creativity.”
Celebrating the milestone and aiming to spark that surprise and “meraviglia,” Coin revisited one of his most storied and signature jewels, the Cobra, originally dating back to the late 1990s, and for the first time elevated to the high jewelry range.
Roberto Coin “Meraviglia,” white gold Cobra necklace with diamonds and 15.54-carat green tourmaline.
Relying on new techniques, the new designs of the snake are modern, more sinuous and flexible, developed through a sophisticated study of joints and embellished with diamonds, rubellites, tourmalines, emeralds and sapphires in oval and cushion cuts, with refined settings that amplify lightness, color and movement.
“We are looking at our own patrimony as an unlimited source of new possibilities, transforming memory in innovation and the past in inspiration for the future,” said Coin. A section of the location was dedicated to the archival jewels.
Coin added new pieces to one of his most distinctive collections, the “Animalier,” with a dragon winding its way around a diamond necklace, and a striking lifelike lion brooch, its mane a cascade of diamonds, and his eyes two piercing rubies — this gem a signature of the brand, always present in every jewel. The lion is a symbol of Venice, Coin’s astrological sign is the lion and his second name is Leone, he pointed out. “Brooches are returning in trend,” he added.
Describing himself as very curious and inspired by anything he sees, he said he reproduces faithfully only animals, in scale clearly. For example, his signature Princess Flower collection was inspired by the floral decorations of Venetian palaces, but revisited. “I never do whatever I see. I change it with my imagination. Creativity is inborn, either you are creative or you are not, I may be looking at a lamp and imagine a jewel.”
Roberto Coin “Meraviglia” Cobra yellow gold necklace with diamonds and pink sapphires.
He admitted he was partial to diamonds, and, in fact, he was a pioneer in implementing ethical and sustainable practices. As a member of the board of directors of the World Diamond Council, Coin helped establish the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme alongside the United Nations — an endeavor that ensures the diamonds in every Roberto Coin creation are sourced from conflict-free zones. The company also abided by the Dodd-Frank Act to prevent gold associated with human rights violations from entering its supply chain.
“We have gradually grown and remained competitive leveraging service, a first priority, quality, product traceability and fair price,” said Coin. “We have developed relations with clients and friends based on respect and spanning three decades.”
America remains Coin’s main market, followed by the Middle East. The brand has garnered loyal fans from Michelle Obama and Oprah Winfrey to Selena Gomez, Cynthia Erivo, Kate Hudson, Jennifer Lopez and Halle Berry, among some.
Last year, Dakota Johnson was named a global brand ambassador of the brand and fronted a global campaign photographed by Craig McDean in Venice and running until May 2027.
