After years of shaping the ethos and denim identity of global brands, Natalie Nelson is stepping into her own lane. Having mastered the West Coast Americana narrative at Levi’s, developed the Re-Issue Washwell at Gap, and most recently introduced denim into Aritzia’s world of accessible luxury, the designer is now turning her focus inward—building a brand that reflects her own vision, heritage, and the women she designs for.
“I didn’t want to create a younger Gen Z brand,” Nelson told SJ Denim.
Enter Oketo Studios, a denim brand designed for women who feel established—women who are a bit older, accomplished and navigating their careers, whether in fashion or beyond. The collection merges architectural tailoring with heritage-quality denim, nodding to the timeless and elegant style of her Spanish mother and Afro-Caribbean father.
“They could wear a simple T-shirt and denim but still feel very elegant,” she said. “I wanted to create that.”
Described as “architectural women’s denim,” the collection offers three fits—Cut 101 Straight Jean, Cut 102 Tailored Jean and Cut 103 Barrel Jean—in core washes like black, rise and vintage light and dark indigo. A vintage dark jean jacket as an oversized fit and rounded hem. Cotton fabrics sourced from Kaihara and Kurabo in Japan help create a “tension between tailoring and femininity,” while considered details—like Hollywood waistbands, reinforced interfacing, and carefully balanced back rises—bring a sense of polish and refinement to each piece. Nelson added that Japanese fabrics have a color purity that is unmatched.
Jorge Abuxapqui
“We’re really trying to make intentional pieces that live in the wardrobe for a long time,” she said.
While creating denim itself feels second nature after years in the industry, Nelson said navigating the sheer number of competitors, influences and strategic options is much harder. Small brands also don’t have access to the same trend forecasting tools brands like Levi’s, Gap and Artizia track closely. Still, she views this not as a limitation, but as an opportunity to step away from data-driven design and reconnect with inspiration in a more organic way.
“You use the environment around you and the vintage pieces that you can find. It’s a good challenge [because you] really start to look at trends and colors and materials from a different perspective… which is honestly how I used to design when I first started out,” she said.
Oketo is available through wholesale and D2C channels. The current collection retails for $298-$428. With denim being a mostly seasonless product, new collections will introduce new fits and fabrications alongside carryover styles. The next drop in July will include a strapless top with curved line and stitch details and a jumpsuit based on what has been Oketo’s top seller.
Looking ahead, Nelson hopes to see Oketo “stand on its own” while helping reshape the narrative around denim.
“And by that, I mean no longer it just being one voice,” she said reflecting on her experience as often the only woman in the room at major corporations—and consistently the only woman on the factory floor. “A lot of brands are generally centered around West Coast Americana stories in history—I’d love for Oketo to be able to tell a different version of denim.”
