Chinese duo Yushan Li and Jun Zhou marked the 10th anniversary of their brand with a light heart — and even lighter clothes.
Paraded at Fondazione Sozzani, their spring 2027 coed collection was shaped by movement and airy fabrics and added another building block to that bridge between East and West that the designers have always put at the forefront of their vision.
Backstage, the duo highlighted how their latest effort was a synthesis of the previous two collections, the most recent one inspired by the architecture and colors of the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda in Shanxi Province and, before that, by traditional Chinese kites.
Here, the designers continued to convey the same sense of verticality with slender silhouettes and layered looks hinged on fluid tailoring, paper-thin renditions of sporty staples and more structured workwear, often punctuated with pockets and folded details that winked to kite constructions.
Nods to their roots were still detectable in the proportions and collars drawing inspiration from Ming Dynasty garments, while the Zhongshan suit underwent a softer treatment.
Overall, the sartorial pieces cut from organza stood out for their transparency, gentle colors and effortless vibe. Their delicate appeal was balanced by materials encompassing wrinkle-resistant wool, washed linen and eco-leather, which is increasingly infiltrating the lexicon of the brand. Cue the line of artisanal accessories developed in-house that was introduced this season, including the roomy bags spilling Pronounce garments that models carried around the art-filled halls of the show venue.
