“Thought is free,” says Stephano in William Shakespeare’s “The Tempest,” and Brunello Cucinelli sees this as “a state of mind,” upholding individuality and dedicating his brand’s spring 2027 collection to “the contemporary man who refuses imposed definitions,” the founder wrote in his notes.
This led to combinations of colors and fabrics that had a lived-in look, almost vintage, such as jackets in leather that appeared to have been washed or faded by the sun.
Along the same lines, Cucinelli experimented with garment-dye on knits in pastel colors — 12 to be precise — from azure and mint-green to peach. Indeed, there were more knits this season, also in a cable version, yet feather-light.
Summer was also about washed cottons, linens and ultra-light wools, and the surfaces were often textured.
Aligned with a trend in Milan, the safari jacket contributed to the season’s mood. Cargo pants were elevated, worn with tailored suits and ties — returning in force in the city. Supporting mixing-and-matching, the collection was cohesive, further elevated and appealing.
For perhaps the first time, Cucinelli did not attend the event because he was presenting the documentary film about his life “Brunello: the Gracious Visionary,” at the Shanghai Film Festival. This followed the premiere in Rome last December and a screening in New York in April.
With a jury chaired this year by actor Tony Leung Chiu-wai, the festival in Shanghai included the film directed by Academy Award-winning filmmaker Giuseppe Tornatore in the out-of-competition section “International Film Panorama.”
