Tuning in on Teams a few days after American brand management company Marquee Brands inked its deal to buy control of Roberto Cavalli, designer Fausto Puglisi enthused about the energy shift marking the label’s momentum.
“I’ll be always grateful to the job done by Damac and the Sajwani family, and happy they will stay on board for what concerns the real estate side,” Puglisi told WWD about the Dubai-based luxury real estate developer that bought Cavalli in 2019 and will retain a stake in the business.
“And I really like this new American side because this is the first market when it comes to Roberto Cavalli — it has always been. So to work with someone who’s truly on the ground, understands a certain type of customer and of product development is only a source of pride and [opportunity] of growth for me,” continued Puglisi. “There definitely seems to be good prospects, so we’re absolutely positive. There’s a good energy… and there’s also a desire to keep the brand at a high level, which is very important.”
While it’s “too early” to receive official briefs about a creative mandate from the new owners, Puglisi is committed to sticking to what he does best: turn up the brand’s sensual volume and tune it to the frequency that can be relevant for today.
His resort 2027 collection displayed the approach in full force, going big on archival and animalier prints, frilly gowns and body-conscious jersey dresses. It was all in the quest to unlock the sexy and unapologetic charm of the Roberto Cavalli woman, which seems to have seen a resurgence in desirability judging by the proliferation of red carpet outings, including those at the Cannes Film Festival last month.
“Cavalli is sexy and we’re not afraid to use this word. We’ve always been sexy and it was about time that sexiness made its official comeback in general,” said Puglisi while showing off looks that spanned from patchwork or devoré velvet slip dresses to cutout gowns covered in flashy graphics.
In the same vein, he celebrated the brand’s bold heritage, reprising an early-2000s archival print of an eye mixed with roses and pearls used on a plethora of separates cut in relaxed silhouettes.
It was the theme that stood out in the collection albeit it had some compelling competition in flamboyant alternatives that spanned from peacock feathers and jaguar spots to scale motifs and a washed-out zebra pattern with a tie-dye feel.
Highlights also included denim pieces that honored the house’s know-how in the category, such as the technique Cavalli trademarked in 1988 to lend a wet-looking appearance to jeans by covering them in thermo-adhesive plates, with their croc-inspired pattern here matching the print of a satin devoré shirt in the same hues.
As reported, once the deal closes Marquee plans to accelerate the brand’s growth with new categories — a tempting prospect for Puglisi, who’s poised to have a new playground to express and have fun with the house codes.
