Come June 23, Paris will be burning — on the menswear front.
According to the provisional calendar released Friday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, some 74 brands will unveil their spring 2027 menswear collections, with 36 runway shows and 38 presentations slated until June 28.
Broadly sticking to its usual configuration, the calendar will kick off with the bachelor of arts showcase of the Institut Français de la Mode at 2:30 p.m. on the first day, Tuesday.
Cornerstones of the week, which include Louis Vuitton, Dior, Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto, take up their usual slots. Hermès is swapping its traditional runway format for a presentation ahead of creative director of Hermès menswear Grace Wales Bonner’s January 2027 debut.
Among expected highlights are the return of Saint Laurent to the Paris calendar on the first day at 5 p.m. and the first Celine men’s show under the tenure of Michael Rider at 12 p.m. on the last day. Sarah Burton will also be showing her first Givenchy menswear designs, albeit as a presentation on June 25.
But in a departure from recent seasons, it is the 5 p.m. show of Kidsuper on Sunday that will close the week as Jacquemus is not on the schedule this season. The French brand did not share its plans for spring 2027.
Making its debut on the men’s lineup is Vetements, scheduled for 8:30 p.m. on June 26.
The Zurich-based fashion house has typically shown during the women’s shows or couture week, but cofounder and creative director Guram Gvasalia said the industry is changing.
“March and September have become aggressively commercial — it often feels like a battle between conglomerates for attention: who gets exclusivity over which model, who signs the most ambassadors, who spends the most money,” he told WWD. ” Men’s Fashion Week, on the other hand, still feels cooler, more underground, and more connected to culture.”
What’s more, “a lot of people are already in Europe for the summer, there are major music festivals happening every week, and many come to Paris during Fashion Week simply to hang out and enjoy the atmosphere.
“Showing during men’s felt like the right decision for us, especially because menswear has always been the primary inspiration behind our womenswear from the very beginning,” he added.
Asked if there would be any change in the brand’s fashion attitude, he replied: “My goal this season was to focus on clothes people actually want to wear, still with a twist to keep it fashion, but more genuine and grounded.”
Also showing for the first time in Paris on June 27 at 7:30 p.m. is Soshiotsuki, which won the 2025 LVMH Prize for Young Designers and staged a runway at Pitti Uomo in January.
Since the brand’s launch in 2015, Japanese designer Soshi Otsuki has refined a distinctive blend of Japanese and Western menswear codes, and gained cult status for his oversize suits inspired by ‘80s-era Giorgio Armani.
Missing from the June lineup are Walter van Beirendonck, who is staging a show in Antwerp to mark his 40th anniversary during the first edition of the city’s fashion festival, and Japanese label White Mountaineering.
On the presentation side, newcomers of the season will be Meryll Rogge, who previously showed her co-ed collections during the Paris women’s shows; Song for the Mute, the 16-year-old Australian label founded by Lyna Ty and Melvin Tanaya; and LAD/, launched in 2025 by Ladislas Mandes, a designer working between Paris, Congo and the U.S.
Couture’s fall 2026 schedule is expected to come out by early June.
