After 50 years, stonewashed jeans show no signs of fading.
From its appearance on Anna Wintour’s first Vogue cover as editor in chief in 1988 to being a staple in Princess Diana’s off-duty wardrobe, the vintage-looking denim has secured an enduring place in the cultural zeitgeist, continually evolving through changing fits, styles and the influential figures who wear it.
However, the traditional stone washing process born 50 years ago is less glamorous.
“Cultural and economic influences fueled the innovation of stone washing in the ’70s,” said Michelle Branch, founder of the creative firm Markt&Twigs, Inc. “It was because they wanted things fast, they wanted things soft, and the consumer was driving it.”
Though stone washing was considered a groundbreaking innovation when it emerged, its environmental impact—and the industry’s and consumers’ growing recognition of the need for more responsible practices—did not become apparent until decades later.
Stone washing requires pumice stones, frictional abrasion and industrial washing machines to beat up and break down denim to a more desirable soft and vintage effect. While it remains less expensive than some alternatives, the process runs counter to the industry’s shift toward production methods that are less labor-intensive, use less water, generate less sludge and better preserve fabric durability.
Last week at Kingpins New York, executives from across the supply chain discussed stone washing’s impact and how the process is evolving alongside the industry.
Babar Sultan, Artistic Milliners director of product, compared stone washing to a time machine—a way to make jeans feel softer, enhance color and achieve the lived-in aesthetics of jeans originally worn by workers and miners. Stone washing allowed brands to bring that look to the masses, and over time, became the blueprint of everyday jeans with commercial appeal, he explained.
After a half a century of stone washing—and decades prior spent pursuing denim’s signature worn-in aesthetic—it’s clear the look is here to stay. However, Patrick Wendt, founder of Woptag, a technology company specializing in hyper-real digital denim simulations and 3D design tools for the fashion and garment industry, said brands and suppliers have a responsibility to invest and adopt more sustainable alternative processes.
“We should honor [stone washing] in a way that guides us into transformation. Fifty years ago, when we started using it, we didn’t know what we were doing. We were creating something beautiful… a look, a color, a feeling and it was right at the time,” he said. “But today, I believe you should honor it by what we learned [from] stone… It creates a wonderful product, but we have to find better ways of doing it.”
While methods vary across production zones, change is underway. Bill Curtin, owner of Blueprint Denim Washhouse Inc. (BPD) in New Jersey, said “actual pumice stones are rarely used now in the process.” Instead, manufacturers are increasingly turning to stone-free enzymes and ozone technologies, which he said are more cost-effective than pumice stones because they eliminate the shipping and storage expenses associated with the volcanic rock.
Now, he added, “stonewash” has become a generic term to describe the results of these more sustainable and efficient technologies.
More technologies are coming. “We are going through a transformation era. Sounds cliche, but I can feel it, see it,” Sultan said, adding that advances in AI and chemistry will disrupt how the industry dyes and washes fabrics, with digital printing emerging as one of the most significant innovations.
However, any new technology will ultimately need to meet consumers where they are. Early denim buyers—miners and laborers—prioritized durability and protection. By the ’80s, as denim became more fashion-driven, stone washing rose to prominence by giving jeans the vintage, broken-in look consumers wanted. Through the ’90s and 2000s, appearance remained a primary purchasing driver. Today, Sultan believes consumer priorities have shifted again, with comfort and feel taking center stage: Is it comfortable? Is it soft enough?
The stone-washed aesthetic aligns with this evolution, particularly as consumers place greater emotional value on their apparel purchases. “If the world is in chaos, you’re more likely to grab onto things that feel good, that are nostalgic, that are soft, that are comfortable,” Branch said.
In many ways, stonewashed denim is proving that history can repeat itself—this time with a greater emphasis on responsible production.
