Vogue: In February 2025, greenwashing specialist Tanja Gotthardsen and Danish consumer organization Tænk filed a complaint with the Danish Consumer Ombudsman against CPHFW, accusing it of greenwashing. What was going through your mind when that happened?
I wasn’t surprised that someone wanted to question or challenge our framework. Constructive criticism is what pushed our fashion week in this direction in the first place — had there not been criticism of our industry, we probably would have gone on as usual, without the minimum sustainability standards. I was maybe slightly surprised that a case was filed, but I was confident that our framework was extensive and thorough. We have been advised by top international experts in different fields from materials to human rights — you name it — and we knew it was ambitious for the industry, which didn’t have any requirements before, and very little by way of legislation. I was also confident that it was being used in the way it was intended, to screen brands.
Vogue: Seven fashion companies were named in the case — Baum und Pferdgarten, Berner Kühl, Forza Collective, Herskind, OpéraSport, Stine Goya, and Won Hundred. The activists that filed the case were concerned that these brands were not using the framework as intended, but using it to make green claims.
In Denmark, we have very strict guidelines for communicating about sustainability. One of the minimum sustainability standards in our framework is actually that you must communicate about your initiatives, which the brands were doing. The ombudsman dropped the case against us and the seven brands. We haven’t changed anything. Ultimately, it was a good opportunity to have an authority assess our framework, and it has allowed us to continue.
Vogue: You’re also introducing a partnership with digital product passport (DPP) provider Renoon this season. Tell me more.
We’re very excited to partner with Renoon to explore how AI can strengthen the implementation of our minimum sustainability standards. One of the biggest challenges for fashion weeks and councils looking to use the framework has been the time and resources they need to invest, in order to manually review and screen participating brands against the criteria.
By integrating AI into the assessment, we can make implementation much more efficient and scalable, while maintaining the rigor and credibility of the framework. This not only strengthens the experience for our existing partners, but also makes it easier for new fashion weeks and councils to adopt the framework. We’re optimistic that this will help accelerate its international uptake, and, ultimately, increase the collective impact of our industry.
Vogue: Outside the sustainability standards, what comes next for CPHFW?
To have been able to witness how our minimum sustainability standards have made an actual difference, and how setting very clear expectations has encouraged real improvements, has been very encouraging. Whether it’s in the field of sustainability or other aspects — such as talent development, innovation, or collective action — we will continue using our platform to create value beyond the runway.
