PARIS – Fashion Month is a marathon, not a sprint, so the pace will be heady when Paris Fashion Week kicks off on Sep. 28.
The spring 2027 season, scheduled to run until Oct. 6, will feature 68 shows and a total of 101 events over nine days, according to the provisional schedule released Friday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, or FHCM, French fashion’s governing body.
Still settling into a new configuration following the great creative reset of 2025, the season in Paris will kick off with the 2:30 p.m. show of Julie Kegels on Sep. 28 and conclude with Louis Vuitton’s 6:30 p.m. show on Oct. 6.
Among changes are Miu Miu opting for a Sunday outing, while Chanel will be sticking to the Monday evening slot it has occupied since Matthieu Blazy’s first collection.
Back in the City of Light this season are Maison Margiela on Sept. 29, after opting for Shanghai last season, and Valentino, which exceptionally showed its fall 2026 collection in Rome.
Brands returning to the calendar with a spring show also include Sacai, which skipped last season as Chitose Abe explored new options to show her work, as well as Casablanca, Ester Manas and Christopher Esber.
Sitting out the season are Rabanne, which will show the first collection of freshly named creative director Olivier Rousteing in March; Nina Ricci, following the departure of Harris Reed; and Off-White, which is planning an important brand moment during Milan Fashion Week, a spokesperson told WWD on Friday.
Also not on the spring 2027 calendar is Giambattista Valli, who is taking back control of his house following an agreement to buy back full ownership from Artémis, the private investment arm of the billionaire Pinault family.
Meanwhile, Thom Browne has chosen to show at home in New York City, as has McQueen, whose creative director Seán McGirr will present his spring 2027 men’s and women’s collection in a coed runway showcase on Sept. 20 during London Fashion Week.
The opening day in Paris will see the runway debut of Maxhosa Africa, which had been staging Paris presentations since February 2024, and conclude at 7 p.m. with Matières Fécales, which made waves by dressing Zendaya for the premiere of “The Odyssey” in New York, and model Gabbriette Bechtel for her wedding to Matty Healy.
Anchoring the second day, which kicks off with Manas’ 10a.m. return, are Dior in its traditional 2:30 p.m. spot, Margiela at 5:30 p.m. and Saint Laurent, stepping into the night with a 9 p.m. timing.
Drew Henry will be making his Courrèges debut at 10:30 a.m. on Sept. 30, a heady day that also features The Row, Balmain, Dries Van Noten, Stella McCartney, Vaquera, Acne Studios and Tom Ford.
Highlights of Oct. 1 will include Chloé, Balenciaga, Rick Owens and Schiaparelli, while Casablanca joins the Friday lineup of Loewe, Issey Miyake, Givenchy, Yohji Yamamoto and Stella McCartney with its 2:30 p.m. show.
On Saturday, the trifecta of Junya Watanabe, Noir Kei Ninomiya and Comme des Garçons take their customary morning and late afternoon timings, while Celine and Hermès will take the 12 p.m. and 3 p.m. timeslots respectively.
There will be no time for a lazy brunch on Sunday, which will kick off with Lacoste, continue with Miu Miu at 1 p.m. and Valentino at 3:30 p.m. Forget about cocktail hour too, as Mugler takes the 6:30 p.m. spot and Jean Paul Gaultier goes for 8 p.m.
Oct. 5 will be bookended by Sacai at 10 a.m. and Chanel in its new customary 8 p.m. time.
Louis Vuitton will close Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday at 6:30 p.m., a day that sees a slew of independents such as Esber, CFCL and Pierre Cardin also on the runway.
On the presentation side, newcomers are French TV personality and knitwear designer Alexandra Golovanoff with her eponymous cashmere line; and Paris-based womenswear label Fidan Novruzova, who reached the semi-finals of the 2024 LVMH Prize for Young Designers and was a finalist of this year’s ANDAM Awards.
Back on the calendar with presentations are Leonard, which has not yet announced a creative director following the departure of Georg Lux in December; Chinese label Didu and fashion veteran Xuly Bët.
