Stefano Gallici has a new way of approaching pre-collections. If his first efforts for the season focused on offering immediately readable wardrobe archetypes, providing neater versions of his vision, the creative director is now looking to bridge the gap between these commercial moments and his fashion shows by conceiving collections together.
The resort 2027 lineup is the prelude to what will be unveiled in full on the catwalk during Paris Fashion Week in the fall. It gave a little taste of the narratives infiltrating Gallici’s storytelling, all the while letting his personal take shine a bit brighter.
Cue the hussar jackets, leather biker jackets and handsome long coats, as well as the varsity options punctuating the lineup, along with the focus on lived-in denim pieces that have always been part of his collections. More noteworthy was Gallici’s departure from the slouchy tailoring the brand is known for to embrace still nonchalant yet slimmer fits and subtle flared proportions more attuned to his own style.
“East of Eden” — both John Steinbeck’s 1952 novel and the film starring James Dean — was among Gallici’s references, occasionally spelled out via embroidered details or serving as the starting point for the designer’s exploration of the early 20th century, the timeframe his vision is set in.
Research into other characters, such as Amelia Earhart, and fashion of the era resulted in aviator jackets or pin-striped tailored pieces, including double-breasted suits, waistcoats replete with chains and buttoned skirts. Fluid Edwardian-inspired slipdresses replaced the Victorian sensibility of Gallici’s recent shows, giving way to a more relaxed romanticism.
The color palette further signaled an evolving lexicon. In addition to the signature black and shades of ivory and chalk — which delivered different effects depending on the fabrications, encompassing plain Japanese cottons and fluid satins, chiffons and textured poplins — the brown hues of leather jackets and suits and the powder pink tones of the floral devoré shirts and sheer frocks should tempt Gallici’s bohemian characters to start experimenting more with color.
