In an industry addicted to reinvention, Alberto Caliri’s commitment to continuity feels almost rebellious. While other brands seem to perform seasonal identity crises, his version of Missoni carries on, refining what it already does well.
For resort, he proposed summer as mood rather than a geographical location. The pieces were designed to move easily between beach and city: easy to wear, attractively unpretentious. The real pleasure lay in the colors. Caliri has a knack for building an artistic palette, which here took on a sun-softened, almost melting quality, with shades dissolving into one another in gentle tonal gradations.
Caliri calls it “Missonism,” the house’s peculiar ability to impose order on exuberance. Few brands are so immediately recognizable from across a room, though few rely on such a restless vocabulary of lines, patterns, and color. Caliri’s task is to keep that visual chatter speaking with one voice, whether it appears on a knitted dress, a men’s shirt, or a throw draped over a sofa.
This season, that language was spoken with a hedonistic accent. Shirts were layered nonchalantly over one another, men’s trousers were borrowed and worn low, knitwear mingled with denim. Drifting from day into evening, liquid sundresses gave way to slinkier propositions; miniskirts were paired with oversized shirts; skimpy tops balanced generous trousers. The silhouette remained relaxed and fluid, animated by plunging backs, fluted hems, and necklines that seemed determined to spend as much time as possible in the sun. Strings crisscrossed bare skin with just enough restraint to keep things elegant.
The same summer spirit ran through the concise menswear offering, rendered in a register of blues cut with white and the occasional earthy note, as if someone had packed for the Riviera and detoured through the Italian countryside on the way.
Built for ease, loose blousons, Bermuda shorts, lightweight sweaters and polos sat alongside swimwear that could be worn by the sea, or at a hotel bar you never quite manage to leave. While nothing here felt over-engineered, the geometry never fully relaxed. Missoni’s signature patterns ran through everything, turning even the most pared-back shirt into a coded signal of the house’s identity.
