While many designers strive to be all things to all people, Lorenzo Serafini chose focus for resort. That meant concentrating on what has long been Alberta Ferretti’s calling card: the dress. “I wasn’t interested in reproducing the past,” he said. “What attracted me was the spirit of that woman: natural, sensual, and positive.”
Ferretti’s signature languid silhouettes were rendered in attractive bias-cut gowns elongating the figure; decorative seams spiraled into rosettes and soft ruching, replacing traditional embroidery with technical ingenuity. It was decoration by construction rather than embellishment, a modern take on the elegant glamour of 1930s dressing.
Yet Serafini’s romanticism comes with a very 2026 pragmatic streak. Elaborate hand embroidery is extremely costly, so he sought alternative ways to deliver allure and impact without pushing prices into the stratosphere. Crystal mesh stepped in for more expensive ornamentations, bringing shimmer while introducing an almost industrial edge.
On the same note, liquid-surfaced fabrics caught the light, tracing the contours of the body without tipping into overt seduction. Leather separates provided a counterpoint to softness, grounding the fantasy with a sharper approach. Delicate cut-out lace appliquéd onto crystal mesh added texture and depth, while small capes and capelets, something of a signature by now, fluttered like sophisticated punctuation marks.
Serafini is thinking strategically about the moment fashion finds itself in. “You need a point of view, a focus,” he said. “Today it’s important to be very precise about who you’re speaking to and what message you want to send. The industry is saturated with options and overwhelmed by noise.” He sees clarity as a luxury in itself. Rather than attempting to be everything to everyone, he has chosen to amplify what Alberta Ferretti has always done best: creating dresses that highlight instinctive sensuality without trying too hard. As for the collection’s appeal, Zendaya has apparently already placed an order.
