Not a destination but a specific woman: this time creative director David Koma didn’t embark on trips to Italian shores to set the mood for his latest pre-collection at Blumarine, but relied on the intriguing appeal of Irina Shayk to convey the duality between seductiveness and romance embedded in the brand.
Koma’s investigation of the daring and the delicate and his ongoing exercise of balancing the label’s codes with his own sleek handwriting resulted in a more edited effort, in which he dialed down the drama in favor of the more straightforward.
In a preview, Koma said that for resort 2027 he was interested in “this whole idea of psychology of summer and how all of us change during the season. We become more brave, more exposed and different versions of ourselves. Instead of looking at the classic vacation wardrobe, I just wanted to explore this change.”
For the designer, it was important “at this stage to create something that is strong and aspirational, but at the same time very clear, relatable and wearable.” He chose Shayk as his seasonal muse for her ability to embody adult glamour but also be “strong enough to showcase the vulnerability” and softness of the brand.
The opening looks leaned more toward the former, with fringed see-through numbers expressing the dark romanticism Koma has brought to Blumarine; smoking jackets with integrated satin tuxedo scarves showing his tailoring expertise, and floral-themed metal harnesses paired with fringed long skirts or peeking from under marabou-trimmed cardigans displaying his penchant for theatrics.
The nocturnal mood of black Chantilly lace dresses cut in different lengths was balanced by lime-hued or bougainvillea-printed mini frocks that had a daintier vibe, expressed via ruffles, turquoise beading and feathery embroideries.
White looks, including a crinkle-georgette dress with cascading ruffles and a crisp poplin shirt dress with a sculptural silhouette, stood out for their pristine appeal and that wearability Koma was after, claiming a spot in the Blumarine woman’s suitcase for her next resort getaway.
